Storing a Track Car: What to Do Between Track Days

A road car goes into storage after a gentle drive. A track car often goes in straight after the hardest day of its year. That changes what storage has to do.

Most track cars spend far more time parked than running: a few days on circuit, then weeks or months standing, often right through the winter. The brakes have been hotter than they will ever get on the road and the tyres have been hard at work. Whatever state the car is left in that evening is the state it sits in until the next outing. Storing a track car well mostly means resetting it from the last session.

Brakes: mind the pads, and date the fluid

Don't clamp hot pads against a hot disc

After a hard session the discs are very hot, and a pad held against a hot, stationary disc can leave friction material behind in its own shape. Brembo's disc guide describes what pad deposits do: they cause local overheating, which turns the cast iron underneath into a much harder form called cementite. That patch then grips differently from the rest of the disc, and the driver feels it as a vibration under braking.

Two habits avoid it. Once the car has stopped, don't sit holding it on the brake pedal. And on cars where the handbrake works on the main pads, leave it off until the brakes have cooled. Many modern performance cars have a separate parking brake, and some electric ones apply themselves when the car is switched off, so it's worth knowing how yours behaves. Either way, leave the car in gear or in park and always chock the wheels. Carbon-ceramic brakes have a related problem in storage, where pad and disc can bond in damp air, which our supercar storage guide covers.

Brake fluid ages by the calendar

Most brake fluid (DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1) is glycol-based, and glycol absorbs water from the air. Water lowers the boiling point. That matters on track because boiling fluid turns to vapour, vapour compresses where liquid doesn't, and the pedal goes soft.

The US federal brake fluid standard, which is where the DOT grades come from, sets two minimum boiling points for each grade: one for new fluid, and a "wet" one for fluid holding about 3.7% water by weight.

GradeMinimum boiling point, newMinimum boiling point, wet
DOT 3205 °C140 °C
DOT 4230 °C155 °C

Minimum boiling points from US Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 116 (49 CFR 571.116). The wet minimum is for fluid holding about 3.7% water by weight. Full sources at the end of the article.

For DOT 4, the legal minimum drops by 75 °C between the two. Racing fluids are made to beat these floors, but water moves every glycol fluid in the same direction.

The fluid keeps ageing while the car stands. A car laid up from October to March comes out with fluid five months older, without having done a mile. EBC, the brake maker, recommends bleeding the brakes before a race weekend and during it. For a car coming out of storage, that makes a bleed the first job before the first track day of the season, and it helps to know when the fluid last went in.

Tyres: pressures, heat cycles and the spare set

Set pressures once the tyres are cold

Tyre pressure falls as the air inside cools, and after a session the difference is big.

Say a tyre reads 2.2 bar on the gauge when it comes in, with the air inside at about 70 °C. A gauge reads on top of the atmosphere's 1 bar, so the air is really at 3.2 bar. At near enough constant volume, pressure falls in step with absolute temperature. Cooled to 15 °C, that's 3.2 × 288 ÷ 343, about 2.7 bar, or 1.7 on the gauge. Half a bar has gone, with no leak.

So a pressure read in the paddock won't be the pressure the next morning. And if the cold pressures were set lower for track use, so the tyres reach their target once hot, a car put away on them stands on softer tyres than it needs to. A tyre carries its load roughly as pressure times contact area, so lower pressure means a bigger, more flattened patch. Set pressures for standing, with the tyres cold, before the car goes into storage.

Competition tyres have a history you can't see

Competition tyres change chemically the first time they get hot. Tire Rack, the US tyre retailer, advises an easy first heat cycle and then at least 24 hours for the bonds in the rubber to settle before hard use. Overheating a tyre later can cost it performance for good. So the number of sessions a set has done belongs on the car's record, next to its pressures.

Flat spots, and the spare set of wheels

A car that stands still puts its whole weight through one small patch of each tyre. As our supercar storage guide explains, a flat spot can become permanent after around a month of standing. Track cars that only move for events are the classic case.

Many track cars also have a second set of wheels. Michelin's guidance is to keep tyres somewhere clean, dry, temperate and ventilated, out of direct sunlight, and away from heat, solvents and any source of ozone, such as electric motors, transformers and welding sets. Tyres on rims can stand upright, hang, or be stacked "two by two maximum". Tyres off their rims should stand upright, never stacked or hung.

Rubber also ages whether it's used or not. The last four digits of the DOT code on the sidewall give the week and year the tyre was made, so 4714 means week 47 of 2014.

Oil and the battery

Our winter storage guide gives the rule for oil: if it is anywhere near due, change it before storage rather than after. Used oil carries acidic by-products of combustion, and changing it first means they don't sit inside the engine all winter.

A battery cut-off switch stops the car drawing current, but the battery still loses charge slowly on its own, so it still needs looking after. Some track cars run lightweight lithium batteries. A conditioner built for lead-acid isn't automatically right for one, so check with the battery's maker which charger it needs.

Write it down, then check it before the next outing

The best time to note what a track car needs is the evening it comes off the circuit, while everyone still remembers. Per car:

  • the date of the last outing;
  • pad depth, and the date and type of the brake fluid;
  • which set of tyres is on, and how many sessions it has done;
  • the cold pressures set for storage;
  • anything that happened: an off, a warning light, a noise, a pull under braking.

Then, before the next track day:

  1. Bleed the brakes, unless the fluid is recent and you know the date.
  2. Check the discs for any pad-shaped patch, and check pad depth.
  3. Check tyre date codes, and set pressures cold for the circuit.
  4. Check oil and coolant levels, and that the battery is fully charged.
  5. If the wheels have been swapped, tighten the wheel nuts or centre locks to the maker's torque and procedure.

Five questions to ask a storage facility about a track car

  1. Can the car come in straight from a track day, and what happens when it arrives?
  2. Do you keep a record per car of brake fluid date, tyre sets and pressures?
  3. Can you store a second set of wheels, and how are they kept?
  4. How are batteries kept charged, including lithium ones?
  5. How much notice do you need to have the car ready for a track day, and who moves it?

Common questions about storing a track car

Should I use the handbrake when storing a track car?

Not while the brakes are hot, if the handbrake works on the main pads, because pad material can transfer onto a hot disc. Leave the car in gear or park and always chock the wheels.

What pressure should a stored car's tyres be at?

Follow the car or tyre maker's storage advice, and at the very least the normal road pressure, set with the tyres cold. Lower track pressures leave a standing tyre softer than it needs to be.

Do tyres go off in storage?

Rubber ages with time, which is separate from wear or heat cycles. Keep spare sets away from sunlight, heat and ozone sources such as electric motors, and check the date code before trusting an old set on track.

How we handle it

Henry's Car Barn has been storing cars since 1984, at sites in Warwickshire, London, Hampshire and West Sussex, with a fifth at Thruxton from November 2026. Storage sits alongside collection management, transport across the UK and Europe, and on-site work including detailing and Liquid PPF installation.

If you use your car on track, the most useful first conversation is about the car and how you use it: how often it goes out, where, and what it needs between outings.

Where the technical claims come from

  1. Pad deposits on brake discs. Brembo, The Brembo Guide to Brake Disc Assembly and Maintenance, section 2.4.5: "These spots are due to deposits of pad friction material. This causes overheating which in turn leads to a transformation of the cast iron with the formation of very hard cementite." That a pad held against a hot, stationary disc can leave such a deposit is our reasoning from that mechanism, and is the basis of the handbrake and footbrake advice. bremboparts.com
  2. Brake fluid boiling points. US Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 116, 49 CFR 571.116, S5.1.1 and S5.1.2: minimum boiling points of 205 °C (DOT 3) and 230 °C (DOT 4), and wet minimums of 140 °C and 155 °C. S6.2.5 defines the wet test fluid as humidified to 3.70% water by weight. ecfr.gov
  3. Glycol-based brake fluid absorbs water, and vapour makes the pedal fail. Glycol-ether fluids (DOT 3, 4 and 5.1) "absorb moisture from the atmosphere under normal humidity levels"; vapour "is highly compressible relative to liquid". Wikipedia, Brake fluid.
  4. Bleed before and during an event. EBC Brakes, Braking System Temperatures and How to Keep on Top of Them, which recommends "a brake bleed before and throughout your race weekend/event". ebcbrakes.com
  5. Tyre pressure falling as tyres cool. Worked from the gas law (pressure proportional to absolute temperature at constant volume), taking atmospheric pressure as 1 bar and 70 °C and 15 °C as 343 K and 288 K. The 2.2 bar and 70 °C figures are illustrative.
  6. Heat cycling. Tire Rack, What Is Competition Tire Heat Cycling?: new competition tyres should go through "an easy initial heat cycle", after which "the tires require a minimum of 24 hours to relax and relink the bonds between the rubber molecules". On overheating: "it is possible to overheat a tire at any point in its life, and doing so makes the tire lose some performance from that point onward" (Race & Track Driving, Race Tire Heat Cycling). tirerack.com; racetrackdriving.com
  7. Storing tyres. Michelin, How to store tyres: a "clean, ventilated, dry, temperate" area "away from direct sunlight", away from "any source of ozone (transformers, electric motors, welding sets, etc.)"; mounted tyres upright, hung or stacked "two by two maximum"; unmounted tyres "Do not stack or hang them. Store them standing up." michelin.com
  8. DOT date code. Michelin, Tire markings explained: "4714 means the tire was manufactured during the 47th week of 2014." michelinman.com
  9. Flat spots becoming permanent at around a month, carbon-ceramic pads bonding to discs in damp air, and changing oil before storage. Already published on henryscarbarn.co.uk in the supercar storage and winter storage guides, and carried across here for consistency.
  10. Battery self-discharge and lithium chargers. Stated as general mechanism, with no figures: a disconnected battery still self-discharges, and charger suitability is referred to the battery's maker. The softer-tyre point is first-principles statics: the load a tyre carries is roughly its inflation pressure times its contact area, so at lower pressure the contact patch has to be larger. Electric parking brakes applying at switch-off is stated as something some cars do, with the reader told to check their own.
  11. Thruxton. The HCB line uses the agreed wording, "a fifth at Thruxton from November 2026". Nothing else is claimed about the site.
  12. Service description. As published on henryscarbarn.co.uk: the 1984 founding date, the four current sites, collection management, transport across the UK and Europe, and on-site detailing and Liquid PPF.

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